Mountain Bike cartoon

Day 5: Big Creek Cabin to Gateway Hut


It was so cold that we spent a long time in our warm hut eating breakfast and enjoying warm running water for washing etc. We didn't leave until nearly 11 am, our latest departure time yet.
Big Creek Cabin in the morning. Trees, bikes, but too cold for people.
Having gotten so tired and cold the previous day and knowing that we had our biggest climb of 4,000 feet coming up the following day, I opted to take the easier route to Gateway Hut and Rob gallantly agreed to accompany me. We were to continue to the end of the Divide Road along the Uncompahgre plateau, which involved some gentle ups and downs and then at Jackson Canyon, we would plunge down into the valley and join Highway 141 where we had to cycle thirty miles to reach the small town of Gateway.

We erroneously thought that this would be a thirty-mile downhill ride with no effort - the altitude and cold must have affected our brains. In fact the first twenty miles was more or less on the flat with a strong headwind,
Penny riding across the highlands of Uncompahgre National Forest under scudding clouds.
which in effect meant that we had to peddle quite hard. However, the scenery was wonderful, reminiscent of Provence, and we enjoyed our slow pace and frequent stops. The final ten miles were indeed straight downhill with no peddling - only the temperature went up and by the time we reached Gateway we were thrilled to find a small café that sold ice cream at a ridiculously low price. We were also able to phone home and talk to Kate and Al who were getting on just fine without us, and with the baby sitter.

Meanwhile the four athletes had climbed back up to Uranium Road which we had passed the day before and then descended to Indian Creek passing by the single track alternate route (to be avoided at all costs unless a truly reckless mountain biker with unfaltering energy and preferably under the age of twenty five). Then began a long ascent of several miles on difficult terrain up to the aptly named Calamity Basin. This climb was all the more demanding, as the road has been bladed and graded by a machine. Next came a steep and hair raising descent off the Uncompaghre plateau down a trail that was cut into the side of the mountain with a sheer drop on one side. Falling off the bike didn't bear thinking about. I am only grateful that I opted for tarmac that day although their views were spectacular. They entered a sandy desert-like area with loud cicadas chirping in the bushes and soft white sand to negotiate on their bikes.
Rob leaning against Gateway Hut, both in shadow.
They joined our road a few miles before Gateway and reached the ice cream café just as we were about to leave for the hut. We took Mike's carefully guarded key and went on ahead leaving them to enjoy new food choices and phone calls.

Gateway hut was more reddish brown than green but the same shape and structure as the others. It was set in a field overlooking the Dolores River surrounded by cliffs of red rock. The temperature soared to Tucson levels and we were obliged to put on insect repellent for the first time on the trip. What a contrast to the freezing cold previous night. We were too tired to find the bathing holes mentioned in our guide, known as The Bible, but we managed to cook up a delicious turkey and veggie pasta with pesto sauce and all sat together outside to eat in spite of the mosquitoes. This hut was spacious and light but Rob had a bad night - probably because I kept kicking him for snoring.